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God Bless Rio
The divine and sublime in Brazil’s hottest city

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EXCURSION
God Bless Rio
Kym A. Backer

Jesus is everywhere. No, I’m not having a religious epiphany in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. Rather, as my group’s van heads to our hotel, I can see the famous Christ the Redeemer statue that stands, arms outstretched, on top of the Corcovado Mountain—even as the road twists and turns.

I get a little closer to the water at lunchtime as the water of Guanabara Bay laps against rocks just a few feet below the tables as I sample a light, savory codfish dish called nata de bacalhau and drain my caipirinha, the nation’s famous—and potent—cachaca-based cocktail.

In the cool air, we tour the city by jeep, past busy traffic and buildings with brilliantly colored graffiti and murals, then board a train at the foot of the hill that leads to Jesus. Again, the statue. I huff and puff my way up steps, but it’s worth it for the distant views of Copacabana, Jardim Botanico and Ipanema from different levels and the up-close view of the man of the hour.

It’s warm and toasty at Rival Petrobras Theater (rivalpetrobras.com.br) that evening as we share plates of sausages with onions, fried yuca and moon-dried beef and farofa (dried crumbled yuca). The ethnically mixed and co-mingling crowd dancing to the lively salsa band reflects the city’s diverse population.

I get my fill of gorgeous items at the Sunday-only Hippie Market in nearby Ipanema, where I score a gorgeous, handmade leather handbag for just over $60 before heading to lunch at Porcao (porcao.com.br), a busy steakhouse (churrascaria in Portuguese).

Walking around downtown in the next day’s bright sunshine, we walk across Plaza 15, named after the date (November 15, 1889) of the country’s Republic proclamation. When I pass by several cathedrals, located near bustling cafes, I remember and look up. Even in the bright sun, in the distance, atop the mountain, I can still see Jesus.

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